Musger Mg19b von TonyRay (2025)

Hello everyone, I'm Tony, when I was building my glider series, I always thought of: Musger MG19B. Maybe it's because I was deeply attracted by the works of the French model master Vincent in the magazine, or maybe it's my interest in continuous design and I was tired of making gull-wing gliders, and I was deeply attracted by this aircraft with straight wings and smooth lines. Its color is so dreamy, I was planning to make a green Scheme Musger from the beginning.

The overall design follows the style of my glider series, so many parts are similar to the DFS Kranich. It is worth mentioning that the canopy is too complex to model. We spent a lot of time and finally got a satisfactory mold.

Next I made the fuselage part. Due to the design of the jig, the fuselage was built on a flat plate. For the stringers I used pine strips instead of the balsa strips that were often used before. The battery mounting bracket at the bottom of the cabin has been additionally strengthened by adding two pine wood strips below it so that it is not easy to tear off the base when removing the battery.

At 1/6 scale, Musger's body is much larger than Minimoa and minimoa mo2a, with a length of 135cm. This also means that he has a huge cockpit space, enough to accommodate large-capacity batteries and other equipment, as well as 1/6 doll figures

And I have made a video of the process when I build the fuselage, welcome to visit it on:

Then plank the fuselage. I can't wait to see the effect of installing the blister canopy, so I first made the canopy part and painted the gray paint to seal the wood in advance.

There is no particular difficulty in planning the fuselage. I will explain how to make a beautiful wing-fuselage transition/fairing separately in my blog. It can make our work more like a masterpiece.

Two methods are introduced here. The first method is the wood filling method. The joint is filled with balsa, which is then worked using a special wood carving knife that has a rounded edge. It is worth mentioning that this requires skilled sharpening techniques, and when you mastered, the entire wing-to-fuselage transition will be done very quickly.

The second method is the common filling method, I use my DFS Kranich II 1/6 as an example. We need to fill the wing-fuselage joint with putty and then sand it. Here are some tips, first, before filling, I used masking tape to mask off the surface outside of the filled area. Then, use an oil painting scraper with a rounded edge (of course you can also use some other handy homemade gadgets to complete this step), so that we can control the shape of the putty to be close to the final shape at the beginning. After all, polishing the putty will be a rather tedious job. Ordinary putty filling shrinks when drying, so it is almost impossible to get the final effect perfectly in one time, and we need to repeat the filling one more time. Here is a tip for homemade ultra-light putty: it is made of ultra-micro fiberglass balloons (a new white powder material) mixed with epoxy resin. Its advantages are 1. It will not shrink violently after drying, 2.light Weight

Let’s back to our musger mg19, when we finished the frame work, we need cover it with fiberglass at a thickness of 0.1mm. Then fill the putty, finally paint with primer and surface paint.

While the primer was drying, I started building the wing, which has only one main spar, no flaps, and no gull-wing angles, which made building the wing very quick.

I used aramid wire to reinforce the boxed structure at the root of the wing spar. Due to the size limitations of the kit box, the entire wing spar is spliced into two sections, so I also added additional reinforcement to the spliced joints. Saturate the wrapped aramid thread with epoxy resin

In the whole process of making the wing, the spoiler part was the most challenging, but I enjoyed the process very much. After all, what could be more fulfilling than making an exquisite linkage device by yourself? Then covering the wings with balsa wood chips, and iron the heat-shrink film

TonyRay 1998 schrieb:

In the whole process of making the wing, the spoiler part was the most challenging, but I enjoyed the process very much. After all, what could be more fulfilling than making an exquisite linkage device by yourself? Then covering the wings with balsa wood chips, and iron the heat-shrink film
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andnet schrieb:

Your wings Look Like they are flat?
Greets,
Andreas

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Hi Andreas, Yes, it is. Musger mg19a have a gull wing, mg19b is flat wings.

Greetings
Tony

Hi everyone, I'm back to update my Musger mg19b, After making the wings, our fuselage primer has completely dried, and we can start painting the fuselage. Because our primer is white, so for the fuselage Scheme, I am going to use masking tape to cut out white patterns. After placing the masking paper in the correct position, then spray the green areas, so that you only need one spray process

Wing coating completed

Decals

I love this green

The Awe-inspiring moment: the masking tape removed

For the canopy, the real aircraft has a small movable window to prevent the hatch from fogging. This small part can make the model look more vivid. Instead of using glue, I made a small tool: using a pin. Tie a pin to a wooden stick, then use a lighter to heat the needle, and then use the needle to poke the rivet position. The high temperature will burn the two sets of plastic pieces together. This method is more stable than glue, and there is no trace of glue.

The Musger has a storage space in the back seat and I was designed this

Using two cupper hinge

Draw a first aid kit logo

Now, our cockpit no longer looks empty, but it seems that something is missing, yes, I think it is the seat belt set.

The canopy looks so good.

Now that's finest model making art!

Very nice indeed,
and I like the green color scheme too.

I would put it in the grass in front of me and pretend I couldn't find it again.

best wishes,
Hilmar

Die Farbreferenz war ein Bild von
http://www.retroplane.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1404 und ich bin mit diesem Bild zu Mipa und habe mir vergleichbares ausgewählt.

Dieses Lacksystem ist meiner Meinung nach sehr gut geeignet da man auch mit einer kleinen Airbrushpistole ein gutes Ergebnis erreicht.
ich verwende immer einen matten bis seidenmatten Lack da hier dann kleine unebenheiten nicht so auffallen. Diesen Lack habe ich zwischen durch immer wieder in den Gefrierschrank gelegt und kann dann auch wieder weiter arbeiten. Nach ca 4 Tagen ist er dann allerdings auch fest.
Sollte mal beim lackieren was schief gehen kann man mit einem 800 Schleifpapier die Stelle beschleifen und muß nicht nach lackieren.(Lack Matt)
Ich habe für die MG19b 200g Lack benötigt :-)
Der Lipo ist ein Hacker 3S 2400 mAh und versorgt einen A30 L mit Verlängerung und Stützlager und völlig ausreichend.
Motorlaufzeit bei ca 4 min

servus aus Bayern